How To Clear Acne - The Cole’s Notes Version From A Naturopathic Doctor and Skincare Formulator
I’m going to keep this as to-the-point as possible because I want you to get the gist of how to clear your acne. It doesn’t have to be complicated, even though the “behind the scenes” of what I’m going to say to you can get complicated, I’m going to do my best to give you the best, most concise, most realistic outline for you to clear your acne.
I’d also like to mention that this is a to-the-point list of suggestions that I have personally and professionally seen to be effective in my 10 years of clinical practice and working with clients in a multitude of varying capacities. Yes, there are a lot of other things out there that can be helpful to heal acne like lymphatic massage, facials from a qualified professional, light therapy, infrared sauna, a ton of other supplements, etc. etc. etc. I’m going to share what I’ve seen work, time and time and again. After all this is the “Cole’s Notes” version of what to do, not a complete, exhaustive novel on every single option that’s out there.
Now, just because you are able to clear your acne doesn’t necessarily mean it won’t ever come back. I’ve seen acne recur again, which can be super frustrating. But please don’t be discouraged, there is hope you will clear your skin again if this ever happens to you.
If you’d like to listen to the YouTube video version of this blog, check it out here. And don’t forget to like and subscribe when you’re there!
Let’s start with talking about the internal work first…
Mindset and Mind/Body Medicine
Over the years I’ve developed a deeper appreciation for mindset, mind/body medicine and the power of intention in the healing process. I believe that our thoughts impact every aspect of our lives, including our physical health. I also believe that any treatment plan is incomplete if this part of healing is not addressed and it can oftentimes be the toughest part for a client to implement. “I don’t have time” or “I get it already” are two common things I hear. Trust me, you do have time and if you get it, then do it.
Mindset, thought patterns and belief systems don’t change overnight. It takes constant, consistent work to keep up with as you are literally rewiring neurological pathways. I like To Be Magnetic and Joe Dispenza as support resources here. I highly suggest taking Joe Dispenza’s online course. It's a series of lectures by him and while they are long, they’re worth it. And don't just listen to what he has to say once, listen to it over and over again. Reinforce what you’re learning from taking his course or reading his books by also listening to him being interviewed in podcasts until you don’t just “get it”, you embody it and live it. Same thing with To Be Magnetic work. Download the app, enroll in the program, do the work, listen to the podcast, and repeat.
Hormone Health For Acne
Acne is commonly associated with poor testosterone conversion (testosterone to DHT by 5-alpha reductase) and/or lower estrogen levels relative to testosterone and progesterone. You can test for this, through bloodwork (which, elevated testosterone will likely only pop up if you have an underlying condition like PCOS) or hormone metabolism (I used to interpret a lot of DUTCH Complete Hormone Testing). Certain supplements like DIM and Inositol can be helpful to improve testosterone conversion and metabolism. And estrogen levels can be supported by certain supplements like EstroMend by Douglas Labs or FemGuard + Balance by Designs for Health, to name a few. Oh, and my Omega Complex on the COLE site is helpful for that hormone support in acne, as well as supporting some metabolism processes that happen at the level of the skin cell.
Insulin is also a hormone and is relevant when it comes to acne. Supporting healthy insulin levels can go a long way in helping to remedy acne. Supplements like Berberine can be handy, so can intermittent fasting and being mindful of glycemic load in your diet. Aiming for 25-30g/day of fibre can help too.
Gut Health For Acne
The health of your gut, be that the gut lining or the gut microbiome can have a major influence on acne and hormones. Make sure you’re having daily bowel movements. If you’re not, that needs to be addressed either by increasing fibre intake, water (but not overhydrating, aim for 2-2.5L/day), supplementing with a probiotic (Probiotic Pro-12 by BioClinic Naturals is my favourite) or magnesium can help. Of course if you have underlying issues like parasites, SIBO, low stomach acid or gut dysbiosis, “leaky gut”, IBS, IBD, etc., those things need to be addressed.
Fibre intake - as I said above, aim for 25-30g/day. Chia seeds, flax, cacao nibs and beans like cannellini beans are my favourite options. Increased fibre intake not only helps improve your gut microbiome and elimination pathways but also helps with hormone metabolite elimination and thus, healthy hormone regulation.
Nutrition matters but not to the point of obsession. Eating whole foods, eating the rainbow, all that jazz…big deal and easy to do. Basically just don’t eat crap on a regular basis. Low fat dairy has a positive correlation with acne, high fat dairy does not. Gluten has some buzz around it being linked to acne severity. If you’re overconsuming these things, consider reducing or replacing them. It’s something worth playing around with to see if you notice a difference in your skin health. Be mindful of glycemic load in your day (so how many insulin spikes is your diet giving you in the day) and sugar intake (<25g/day is a WHO recommendation and one I support, even less than that).
Topical Skincare Products For Acne
Topical skincare products for acne don't need to be complicated. In fact, less is often more. You’ll notice in what I’m about to recommend that a lot of it has to do with restoring the health of the skin barrier and NOT fixing the symptoms of acne like “killing” bacteria or stripping the skin of sebum like so many acne lines out there do. And most of the products I’m about to suggest are from COLE, because the main reason why I created a skincare line was because the more I learned about skincare and product ingredients for acne and aging skin, the less I felt good about suggesting.
Be mindful of pH balanced products, products that don’t contain an abundance of skin barrier disrupting ingredients (like PEGs, PPGs and polysorbates) and harsh surfactants. Certain emulsifiers can be avoided as well, depending on how compromised your skin barrier is. Lines for sensitive skin are oftentimes more helpful for acne than the acne skincare lines.
A quality cleanser makes all the difference. If your skin feels “squeaky” or stripped after cleansing, find a different cleanser. Consonant Skincare’s Natural Foaming Facewash is good, as is my own cleanser, the Omega Cleansing Balm.
A pH balancing next step is not always necessary but is nice to have. I like my Barrier Protection Essence for this. Just 5 sprays after cleansing to help reset skin pH post-cleanse.
Moisturizers, again less is more here. Choose something that doesn’t have a ton of active ingredients. I like mine, the Barrier Repair Cream. Other options include…that’s actually it right now (lol!). There used to be a product from Avene that I liked, it looks like it’s been discontinued (maybe this is an opportunity to add a new product to the site someday…).
You can try face oils too, but I do find a lot of acne clients are hesitant to use a face oil. My High Linoleic Acid Face Oil was specifically designed for acne-prone skin types, as linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid that is deficient in acne-prone skin types and has been shown to help improve the condition by helping testosterone conversion in the skin.
Spot treatments - hydrocolloid pimple patches are nice, as is ozonated oil. I like PurO3’s ozonated olive oil (don’t worry, it won’t clog your pores) as a spot treatment on hyperpigmented lesions or active breakouts before bed.
Please consult with your healthcare provider prior to taking any supplements to ensure they’re safe for you to be taking. Ingredients like Berberine for example, are not safe to take in pregnancy or breastfeeding.
